Rodger Berman & Rachel Zoe arrive at Tom Ford's dinner last night. Photo: Getty Images

Tom Ford showed his spring summer collection in London last night and, for the first time since he launched his eponymous collection a year ago, the reviews don’t all rave.  Critics agree on Ford’s lack of interest in minimalism, his celebration of a woman’s shape, and his unmatched desire for an almost old-fashioned, put together glamour, but some question the energy of last night’s show and wonder if maybe, he missed something this time around. Below, a few examples of each. Lisa Armstrong, The Telegraph “In fact there were moments when you found all your taste certainties being pulverised. But that’s not a bad thing. Ford is no minimalist (though who knew he had such a crush on purple?) and the heavy garnishing will go down well with all the stylists who were already mentally reserving what they’ll shoot. Fashion needs its agitators. Customers—and there are plenty looking for an alternative to fashion’s pastel, sporty colour blocking crazes next season—will find plenty. Those perforated leather skirts for starters, the leather bombers (worn with silk or leather jogging pants) and the guipure lace.” Jess Cartner-Morley, The Guardian “I’m going to come straight out with it. Deep breath: I didn’t think Tom Ford’s show was all that. Not that it was awful, by any means, but despite the beautiful tailoring and the immaculate execution it fell a little flat. It felt too self-referential. Too many frills and too few new ideas. There were gorgeous, curvy, super vamp dresses that I loved, but the flouncy peasant blouses and corset belts seemed like a Guilty Pleasures version of Tom Ford.” Cathy Horyn, The New York Times “Mr. Ford’s show was thoroughly Tom Ford in its appeal and silhouette—tigress hair, smoky eyes, glossy lips, taut skirts and strappy high heels. The collection was loaded up with great day clothes, including loosely laced Moroccan blouses, fringed skirts and some simple but gorgeous dresses with ruching or a belt at the waist and a bubbled hem.” Though she failed to come down on one side or the other, Horyn devoted 75% of her story to newcomer Thomas Tait and gave Ford a mere paragraph at the bottom. Rachel Zoe, Twitter “I can’t breathe from The Tom Ford presentation..there r no words for his genius..xoRZ”